Archive for October 2016

Bali Airport, useful information on Ngurah Rai International Airport

1:19 AM Add Comment


Bali Airport is located in the south between Kuta area and Jimbaran beach, both just a 10 minutes drive. Currently all flights to Bali arrive at this airport of which many arriving from South East Asian Countries and Australia.  
The Ngurah Rai International Airport is currently undergoing a total make-over so you might have to use different routes to get from one point to another. But the procedures upon arrival and departure are still the same.
So to get yourself familiar with the Bali airport here are some things you might want to know: 


Domestic Arrivals at Ngurah Rai Airport

Visa and Immigration

Once you are finally out of the aircraft and able to stretch your legs you will soon find yourself queuing at the VISA UPON ARRIVAL desk. Check here if you need to arrange a Indonesia visa before you travel to Bali.
Today there are more than just two counters where you can get your visa, so the process of obtaining a visa upon arrival is much quicker than in the past. Here you need to pay USD 25 for a 30 day single entry visa. You can pay by cash (in Rupiah or any major foreign currency) or by card. 


The Indonesia visa upon arrival counters at the airport

Once you got the receipt you head to the other queue: passport control. If you are lucky you just need to wait about 15 to 20 minutes but if many international flights have just landed too then don't be surprised if you are still standing there after 45 minutes. 
So be prepared, t is upgrading their facilities, so hopefully the long wait will be history soon. 
Make sure you have filled out the immigration entry forms given on the aircraft or provided in the arrival hall before passport control. Don't loose the little piece of paper that the immigration officer places in your passport. You will need it when you leave the island. 


Queuing at the passport control
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Customs

Once you got your stamp of entry in your passport it's time to collect your luggage. It can get very crowded here as the hall is very small. But this will probably change once the new airport is finished.
If you are not carrying any cash money on you it might be convenient to use one of the many ATM's that are located just after passport control near the conveyor belts. Money changers are after customs. 


If you want you can arrange a porter to carry all your luggage. These men are official employees from the aiport and carry a shirt with a number on the back. Please negotiate a price first to avoid suprises.
If you don't need one and you have got all your luggage then it's time to head for customs. All the bags have to be screened again: hand and check-in luggage. 
In Indonesia it's prohibited to import weapons, fresh fruit, pornography, products made from endangered species, printed matter written in Chinese characters, chinese medicine and drugs. For the last one you will get the death penalty when caught. There is no restriction on foreign currency and there's an import limit of Rp. 5.000.000.


You have been warned...

Additionally foreign nationals are allowed to import one liter of alcohol, 200 cigarettes and a reasonable amount of perfume. 
Officially camera, laptops and other electronics must be declared upon entry but generally the customs at the airport don't make a big deal about this. I never had any problems when bringing my laptop together with two cameras and a video camera. 
However if you bring an item in 'large quantity', for instance 2 or three surfboards then you might cause some eyebrows to rise. 
As soon as your luggage is screened an official will ask for your custom declaration form, which you received on your flight.
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Money Changers 

Before you actually exit the International Arrival Hall you will pass a whole row of money changers first. It might look odd to see women sitting behind a booth trying to get your attention. 


Rows of money changers just after customs...

But they are there to sell the local currency: the Rupiah. If you are not carrying some cash on you already then you should exchange some here. This makes it easier to get through the first couple of hours as you might need to pay for the taxi fare etc.
Not surprisingly the exchange rates are not as good as in town. But if you have no choice then you might as well change a small amount. If you missed the ATM's at the baggage conveyor belt and you really want to save some money then you can head to the departures hall where you can find a number of different ATM's.
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Getting out of or to the airport



Car rental, taxi service, hotel reservation etc just outside the arrival hall

Once you pass the row of foreign exchange counters you will go through the sliding doors only to stumble upon the heat and humidity. Welcome to Bali. 
You will soon see a crowd of people of which most of them are holding a sign with a name. If you have arranged a pick up through your Bali accommodation then all you need to do is follow your friendly driver.
If that's not the case head to the TAXI stand located nearby. This is the only way you can leave the airport. These taxis are linked to the airport and the prices are all fixed. To avoid any trouble, don't be tempted to follow an unlicensed driver. They are not official airport drivers and are not allowed to pick up travelers. 


Taxi prices are fixed, these are from 2011

Once you arrive at the TAXI counter tell the person where you need to go. He will then give you the price which you pay right there. Once you have the receipt your taxi driver will suddenly appear and take you to his car. 
Remember, the prices are fixed so there won't be any charges afterwards. So you don't need to worry about already being ripped off within the first hour of setting foot on Bali. 


The taxis are well organized and you'll soon be on your way

Unfortunately the holiday will eventually come to an end and you need to head back to the airport. Again, if you haven't arranged airport transfer at your accommodation you can ask the hotel reception to call a taxi. This taxi will use a meter so ask the reception how much it will approximately be. 
If you are leaving from Lovina, Candidasa or Ubud area then it might be cheaper to arrange a Bali driver in town for a fixed price.
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Staying near the airport

If you have an early flight then it is always a good idea to be near the airport to avoid being late due to traffic. Luckily there are a couple of nice accommodations located just a stone throw away from the airport so you can spend a relaxing last evening in Bali and still feel refreshed when you need to wake up early in the morning. 
Tuban is the village closest to the airport. Surprisingly enough Tuban is not as popular as its neighboring village of Kuta. But if you want to be sure to be at the airport within 15 minutes than Tuban is the place to be.


The Patra Bali is located at a quiet beach just 5 minutes from the airport

We recommend three Balinese styled resorts located right at the beach. The Patra Bali Resort & Villas is an ideal family resort with a beautiful tropical lagoon swimming pool and direct access to the beach. They have three restaurants so you don't have to walk far to enjoy a nice dinner. 
Ramada Bintang Bali Resort & Spa is located somewhat closer to Kuta and there is a nice beach path that takes you to this famous village. But if you want to spend a romantic sunset dinner on the last night of your holiday then their restaurant is a wonderful option as it is located right at the beach.


Great place for a sunset dinner at Ramada Bintang Resort

The Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali is another beach resort near the airport. This resort has exceptionally good family suites. Couples will enjoy this resort too which is beautifully located at the beach and like Ramada Bintang, just a stroll away from the action in Kuta. 
If the beach is not of great importance and you just want a good night sleep at a smaller hotel for a reasonable price then you can consider The Vira Bali Hotel. Like the other resorts it also has a Balinese atmosphere with clean rooms and a nice swimming pool. The beach is just a short stroll away and with the large number of taxis driving pass you will be at the airport in no time.
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Leaving the airport

After check-in and before passport control you need to pay airport tax. So make sure you have enough Rupiahs left because otherwise you have to look for an ATM (which are available at the departures hall before baggage screening) or change money again.
For international flights the airport tax will be Rph 150.000 per person, while domestic passengers only need to pay Rph 30.000
Also remember not to take any products made from endangered species such as sea shells and accessories made from turtle shells etc as it is prohibited to export these products from Indonesia. 


Last minute shopping at the Duty Free

Once you arrive in your home country you can also receive a fine for these products plus products with fake brands. The last one is only prohibited if you buy it in large quantities and customs will be suspicious of your intentions. 

One minor note, if you buy any liquids at the duty free shops at Bali airport exceeding 100ml then it might be confiscated at the security point on your connecting flight even though it is sealed properly.

12:52 AM Add Comment

These Bali travel tips are useful if planning your trip to this tropical island. It's always convenient to know what to know about practical stuff to make your stay even more comfortable. Check our other pages on issues you should be aware of concerning health, visa and weather. 

When to go

With its location just south of the equator Bali can be considered a real tropical island with an average temperature of 22ºC in the mountain regions and up to 30ºC along the coast and inland. 
Just like any tropical destination Bali has only two seasons; the wet season (monsoon) and the dry season. During the monsoon the humidity level can reach 97%. So you can imagine that if you add the high temperature to the high humidity it can become a sweaty situation. 
However from my own experience I never really thought it was too uncomfortable to be in Bali during the monsoon. After some heavy rain I sometimes even thought it was pretty chilly. So make sure you have some warm clothing with you too.
Result of a heavy tropical rain shower

Theoretically the monsoon starts around the end of October until April. But in reality the rain can come later or it can keep on pouring well into the month May. 
Generally the best time to go is from May to September. But still expect some tropical rain spells during this time, especially around the mountain areas.
The good thing about it though is that the rain can fall from the sky like a bucket of water and often stops within an hour leaving a refreshing scent everywhere.

When heading for the mountains make sure to bring a rain coat

To be honest my girlfriend and I don't really take the weather into consideration when we travel to Bali. We of course prefer the bright sunny skies to the rain but we enjoy going to Bali even more when it's less crowded, which is during the rainy season. It you plan to go hiking, surfing or diving then it would be wise to double check the weather conditions first. 
The high-season in Bali is from mid-June till end of September and the days before Christmas until the first week of the New Year. During these periods the crowd and prices can double. If you need to travel during the national holidays make sure you book way ahead. 
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Safety and Precautions

Generally speaking Bali is one of the safest destinations in Asia to travel. Like any other place you just need to take the normal safety precautions. Solo travelers and women travelers don't have to worry too much about traveling by themselves as the Balinese are caring and avoid aggression and conflict at all times. Just make sure you don't give anyone your hotel name, don't accept drinks from just anyone and that you are able to get back to your hotel by yourself. 
That said, since Bali is a popular tourist destination and the major tourist destination such as Kuta and Legian attract a crowd from every corner of the world, you need to exercise a degree of caution here. 
Overall the number of violent crimes in Bali is pretty low. Theft could be seen as a number one crime. Stealing valuables from hotels rooms and pick pocketing are becoming more common. Also when you are strolling along busy streets such as in Kuta hold on to your valuables as motorcycles are known to snatch handbags and backpacks from pedestrians and speed off before you realize it. 
An other issue that we would like to point out is the increase of victims of methanol poisoning. Methanol is odorless and is added to liquor. Some say that only locally produced spirits are contaminated but there have been some cases that other liquor has methanol in it too. Take extreme care as methanol has killed many young travelers in Bali. Contaminated liquor can be sold everywhere, including nightclubs. 
While drugs seem to be easy to purchase in Bali, don't be tempted. There are severe penalties when you are caught and if you are charged for trafficking you can be sentenced to death. 
Last but definitely not least, some tips on beach safety. Technically you should be able to determine pretty quickly if it is safe to go swimming or not once you arrive at a beach. However beaches such as those in Kuta, Legian and Seminyak are pretty tricky as the sudden under currents are not always visible for those who aren't familiar. Swim only between the yellow colored flags and don't get in when the red flags are out. 
If you don't want to be easily exposed to scams we have listed our experiences under these travel advice once you are in Bali.
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Indonesian Currency

The local currency in Bali is the Indonesian Rupiah, however many places also accept US dollars and Euros. If you are paying with Rupiahs for the first time, it might be wise to have a look at the bills first since the notes have a lot of zeros on them. 
The Rupiah has fluctuated a lot these last couple of years. In general you can say that Rp. 10.000 is about USD 1. But to be more precise I always check the current currency rate on www.xe.com. 
Rupiah bills come in 1.000, 2.000, 5.000, 10.000, 20.000, 50.000 and 100.000 notes. As you can imagine, you will be carrying a big bundle of notes when traveling in Bali considering that a Rp 50.000 note is about USD 5.
1.000 rupiah
2.000 rupiah

On my holidays to Bali I prefer not to have that much money on me, since there are many ATM's that accept my bank card. The only cash I have on me when I arrive in Bali is for the first few days. 
It is for instance convenient to have some Rupiahs for the airport taxi and when you want to go to a restaurant upon arrival. Expect to find ATM's in all tourist places except for Pemuteran, Amed and smaller villages.
Inform you bank at home that you'll be using your card abroad.
  
ATM's in Bali accept VISA card, Master card or debit card with a Cirrus network. Check first what the maximum amount is you can get from an ATM machine, because each withdrawal will cost you.
For instance BCA (blue logo) usually has a maximum withdrawal of Rp 150.000 to Rp. 200.000 only while Danamon (yellow and green logo) ATM's usually have an higher withdrawal such as Rp 2.000.000. 
I always had trouble with Manderi (blue with gold/yellow logo) as they usually didn't accept my foreign bank cards. 
Many hotels, restaurants and big shops also accept credit cards, so this is also a convenient way to pay. 
Make sure though to inform your bank that you are planning to use your card in Bali. If you don't, chances are that their security system will block your transactions for safety reasons. Believe me it's no fun at all.

5.000 Rupiah
10.000 Rupiah
50.000 Rupiah
100.000 Rupiah

Also make sure that you keep your receipts and that you check your bank statements regularly when you are back home. 
A friend of mine used her credit card when traveling throughout Indonesia and a month after she got back home she saw that her card was used to pay large amounts in Karaoke bars. Obviously it was not a nice surprise but luckily she was able to receive her money back. 
Another option is of course to go to the money changer. Here you have to be more careful about the rate exchange and commission. And never leave before counting your money yourself first. 
As mentioned before, the notes have a lot of zeros so the amount you will receive can be quite confusing. On top of that the Rp.10.000 note has almost the same red color as the Rp. 100.000. The seller at the money changers knows how confusing it can be and will take advantage of it. Don't make them feel you need to rush things, take your time to count what you have received. Or to be more safe, change at your hotel. 
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Traveling with young children or with disabilities 

When traveling with young children or with a disability it is always good to know what obstacles you can encounter. The facilities in Bali are well developed compared to other parts of Indonesia, but unfortunately still quite far from perfect.
When you visit Bali with very young children you should bare some things in mind. Powdered milk is widely available in Bali. So if your child doesn't mind changing his/her usual brand you don't have to bring it from home.
Diapers are also available in supermarkets such as Hardy's or other supermarkets in Kuta, Sanur, Denpasar and Ubud. 
However since the Balinese do not use diapers they are imported and therefore much more expensive then at home. 
On top of that don't expect baby changing facilities in public places. I recommend just strolling into an international hotel as there is a higher chance they have these facilities.
In bigger supermarkets they sell baby products

To prevent exposing your child to the sun bring a hat, sun block and try to walk or sit in the shade as much as possible.
Since I don't have a child I can't really say if you should take your child around Bali in a buggy or not. The pavements in Bali are usually not well maintained and you will encounter a lot of stairs or other obstacles. 
However I have seen travelers with buggies and strollers so I can imagine it can be useful if you are going to eat out and your child just wants to doze off. 
Another option is to carry your child in a backpack-carrier. It makes moving around more easily. 
 You will sometimes see a Balinese carry her child on her hips in a 'selendang' 
Children car seats are not common when you hire a car or tour around with a private driver. So make sure the rental company can provide one before making any final bookings. 
If you are traveling with a disability then you will soon realize that Bali does not provide a lot of facilities. The curbs are often high, pavements uneven and ramps are absent. 
Fortunately the island is working on creating less obstacles for travelers with an disability. But to prevent disappointments you should call or email the hotel about their facilities before booking.

In Sanur they have special services for travelers with a disability

Luckily there is a company at Sanur beach which provides services for travelers with a disability. They offer transportation, tours, equipment hire, accommodation etc. To find out more about their services check their website.
Perhaps it would be more convenient to book your holiday through a travel agency which specializes in traveling with a disability.
They are able to give you Bali travel information on hotels, restaurants and sights that are easily accessible. Plus they can arrange suitable transportation.

International food/products

Even though Indonesian food is mouth watering I can imagine that some travelers who have been traveling for some time crave different food. With the large number of expats, tourists and probably also being so close to Australia, Bali has a large selection of international food and products (depending on the part of the island you are, that is)
Not only do restaurants serve food from all over the world, but there are supermarkets and shops that sell all types of international products ranging from peanut butter to chocolate bars. 

Don't bring too much from home. Supermarkets such as Hardy's have a large choice.

Go to Hardy's Supermarket which can be found in most tourist areas to still your cravings. Other small shops such as Cafe Batu Jimbar in Sanur have international delicacies too.
Seminyak is also the place to be for specific food such as organic and international goods. 
The Bali Deli is a gourmet supermarket and is probably the most popular place in Seminyak to buy international food. It has high quality imported food products and bakery delicacies.
So enough choice to satisfy your taste buds... 

Bali Deli in Seminyak Indonesia has a large selection of international goodies

As for toiletries I advice you to bring the ones from home, especially for women. My girlfriend always complains when she needs to buy some cream in Bali. Since the Indonesian beauty standard is to have 'nice white skin' women not only avoid being in the sun but also use whitening cream.
Therefore most shops in Bali sell whitening cream only, with exception to body lotion. So if you want to maintain your tan in Bali bring your own cream. Nonetheless shampoo and soap is plentiful in Bali and are of good quality and very cheap. 
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Clothing

Since you will be heading for the tropics the most comfortable things to wear will be loose fitted light cloths, preferable made from cotton. Also long sleeves and long pants are recommended to prevent mosquito bites and constant sun exposure. 

1 day Laundry service is very cheap

On my holidays to Bali I usually don't bring that much clothes with me. Not because I'm a guy (my girlfriend also travels light) but because the laundry service in Bali is very convenient. You can find it everywhere and it is sooooo cheap. 
Usually you can pick up your clothes the next day and they will be so fresh and clean that you can even smell it when you get back home days or weeks later. 
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Driving licence

Renting a self-drive car or motorbike gives you a lot of freedom to explore the island. If you go for a common motorbike which is usually a 125cc or 150cc you don't need a special motor cycle licence, a regular car licence is also accepted.
However theoretically additional to you regular licence you must have an international driving licence too. 
I'm not going to advice you to do differently, but ever since I have been renting a bike in Bali I have never been asked to show a international licence at the rental place.
But, if you do get stopped by the police, then your heart will not skip a beat if you have the right papers on you.
To be on the safe side, have an international drivers licence

The police can stop you easily for minor traffic mistakes. For instance while changing lanes suddenly because you noticed a sign too late is an enough reason for them to stop you.
And, as you can read in our motorcycle diaries I was always relieved that I could show my international drivers licence whenever they stopped us. 
The police in Bali also set up road blocks at unexpected places. They will stop everyone, not just tourists. If they catch you without the correct papers you will be fined immediately. It will cost you around USD25 (which goes into their pockets as we never received a proper receipt) or you have to go to court. 
It is basically up to you. If you want to run the risk then it's possible to rent a motorbike without the necessary driving licence. As for a car I know it is stricter and many car rental places ask you to show a valid driving licences.

I wonder if the Bali police will check his licence too...
  
So to be on the safe side, arrange an international drivers licence before you leave for Bali and carry it on you together with your original car or motor cycle licence. 
If you haven't got both you can obtain a tourist driving licence at Palayan Sim Tourist in Kantor Bersma Smasat on Jalan Cok Agung Tresna in Denpasar (0361-243939). The licence costs around Rp 200.000. 
Also be aware that they drive on the left side of the road! If this is all getting to much for you, you can also rent a car with a driver. Perfect if you don't want to get frustrated by the crazy traffic!
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Electricity

In tourist areas the volts is 220-240, but in somewhat remote areas it can be 110 volts. Outlets are plugs with two rounded pins. If you forget to pack an adapter there are many shops in Bali which sell those.

Internet shops (Warnet in Indonesian) are available everywhere, whether it's broadband or dial up. But with the fast development of internet in Bali there are many other options to make it easier for you to call home via Skype, email to friends and family and to share your Bali holiday on Facebook. 
 Internet is found everywhere, in all kind of forms

Almost every where on the island you have access to Wifi internet. For some you still need to pay but at many Bali accommodations and restaurants you can connect for free.
At major villages such as Ubud, Kuta, Seminyak, Sanur, Lovina and Nusa Dua Wifi is found at every corner and it works pretty well. So if you have brought your smartphone, ipad or laptop you can connect with anybody anytime. 
If you don't have the latest gadgets on you then another option is the pay phone, also found in the internet shops or special public telephone shops called Wartel. Of course this is a much more expensive option.
 You can also use your own mobile in Bali just in case you want to send text messages or always want to be reached.
If you are staying for a longer period you might want to buy an Indonesian Sim-card which you can put in your own mobile. It is widely available and it is very cheap to get one.

A Journey to Sidemen Village in East Bali, where time stood still

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Sideman (pronounced si de man — not side man) is one of those hidden-away Bali retreats that really is, well, just enchanting. Set a 45-minute drive inland from Padang Bai and an hour from Candi Dasa, Sideman straddles one of the many agricultural valleys that form the ramp up to the imposing peak of volcanic Gunung Agung.

Sidemen area is one of the greatest places in Bali that has strong spiritual aura is Sidemen Valley that located at Karangasem regency East of Bali province. There are many temples of Hindu Bali, the majority religion of Balinese people, located in these villages. This village located at the valley, surround of many hill and most of the area is a rice fields that irrigate by Subak, the Balinese traditional water system for rice field. The housing area separated with the field area, the housing area located at the right side from the road, and the field area located at the left side, that make this village very unique. The area is famous for stunning scenery, and a simple, traditional way of life, “peaceful”.
Despite the overdevelopment on the island this unique area in east Bali still has the feeling as if not much has changed. The small villages are surrounded by rice fields and agricultural land while people still tend to their fields; prepare ceremonies at the temples and head to the rivers for a bath towards the end of the day. All under the watchful eye of the impressive and sacred Mount Agung. More and more travelers are discovering this tranquil place, particularly nature lovers. Bali hiking trails and paths take you along rice fields, mountains, through the valleys of the Unda river and many coffee and cocoa plantations which dominate this area.
Sidemen village has produced masters of Balinese literature and Hindu theology, as well as generations of skillful weavers. For decades, or perhaps millennium, Sidemen have also served as a secluded heaven for the world-weary. All castes of traditional Balinese Hindu society are represented here: Brahmana live in Geria, Ksatria in Palace, Waisya in jero, and Sudra in their own house, and there is also a small Muslim populations that the descent of former the soldier of Karangasem palace from Lombok Island when the Karangasem Palace subjugate it, which has long coexisted harmoniously with their Hindu neighbors.
Things to do
Sidemen’s rice fields provide beautiful hiking possibilities. So hiking is the first thing you are likely to do here. But there is more to this green village, making it pretty easy to spend a couple of days.
Rice field (sawah) walk
You can’t really avoid not hiking through the rice fields as you are pretty much surrounded by them. But a local guide can take you along the small trekking trails, through the fields and past the villages giving you great insight on how daily life takes place in Sidemen. Sidemen is also an ideal place to start organizing a hike to the summit of the volcano Agung or to do day trips to other cultural sights in East Bali. But the best thing is the fact that it is still easy to just go for walks along the many paths and see things such as a duck herd guiding his flock, a priest carrying offerings to the nearby temple and children walking hand in hand from school.
Mount Agung
Many hikers head to Selat to organize their trip to the summit of Mount Agung. But if you want to combine your hike with a stay in Sidemen then you can arrange all the necessary permits and transportation here too.Traditional Ikat and other cultural activities
At Sidemen you can still find many places where they make a fine textile called the “ikat” and the “songket“. There are houses with ikat demo written on it welcoming you to pop in to have a look how it’s been done.Bali Rafting:
With all the rivers flowing through this area it comes as no surprise that there are many rafting companies. Most of the rafting adventures start of at the nearby village of Rendang.
There are also possibilities to raft down the Telaga Waja river which starts at the impressive Mount Agung. Rafting gives you the opportunity to get an adrenalin shot but also to see Bali from a different angle.
Short day trips:
Despite its location amid the valley and rice fields Sidemen is not that far from Candidasa and Padangbai. You can easily go on a drive to these beach villages and enjoy a lunch with ocean view.
Other great beach to enjoy some sun and water is Bias Tugal and Pasir Putih. Once you are on the road try to stop at one of the sites such as Tirta Gangga, Taman Ujung Water Palace or the ancient village of Tenganan. We really enjoy taking the road via Muncun, a tiny mountain village between Candidasa and Sidemen.
How to get there:
The quickest way to reach Sidemen is driving through Klungkung and from there taking the road to Sidemen, which is located in the Karangasem regency. If you are coming from the east then follow the signs to Selat and Besakih and then take the turn to Putung. The drive to Sidemen is already a short day trip with optional stops at Besakih, Rendang and Klungkung.

gining agung

11:59 PM Add Comment
Treat the mountain with respect
This is the holiest mountain on Bali. Treat it with the respect it deserves. Just about every house and building on the island has a shrine for daily offerings to Agung. This is a highly revered site.


Which route
Gunung Agung has two primary trekking routes. The more popular leaves from Pura Pasar Agung and leads to the crater rim, which is 2,866 metres above sea level. The less popular (and apparently even more difficult route) leaves from Pura Besakih and leads right to the absolute summit at 3,031 metres. While everything I had read indicated you had to leave from Besakih to reach the true summit, I saw a group on the day I climbed who started from Pasar Agung but then branched off to reach the summit. Talk to your guide regarding this.
As for which to choose, the summit offers complete 360 degree views of Bali, while the the crater rim has primarily views of south and eastern Bali. The summit trek is considerably more challenging. On the day of my climb there were about 30 people at the crater rim and just four at the summit. See Gunung Bagging for detailed write-ups on Agung trekking routes.


You must have some degree of fitness
I’m not the fittest guy on the block and am carrying a few kilos I don’t need, yet I managed it. However, if you are not fit at all then you should carefully consider if this is for you.
How are you with heights?
Some of the climb is extremely steep. While you’re climbing up at night-time it is difficult to imagine just how steep the surrounds are. In daylight, on the way down, the steepness of the slope is obvious. If you have serious troubles with heights, this is not for you.
Rest beforehand
While you can trek from one of the centres in south Bali, most opt to leave from Sidemen, which has the best range of accommodation within an hour of the slopes. Some choose to stay in Selat, which is about 20 minutes closer, but I’d happily forgo the 20 minutes for the extra comfort in Sidemen. Assuming you’re leaving from Sidemen, you should leave at around 01:00 to start climbing at 02:00. That means hit the sack at 19:00, giving you a solid five hours sleep before the climb.


Have decent footwear
This is not a flip-flop or sandal climb. I wore trekking boots that wrapped my ankles and I saw others in solid running shoes. Make sure you have sufficient grip on your shoes as you’ll be walking in mud low down and slippery moist rocks high up. This is a very easy trek to slip and twist an ankle or worse. There is nothing in the way of air-evac — you will have to hobble out, so watch your step. You do have insurance right?
Dress sensibly
Bintang singlet tops and board shorts are not advised — that’s not to say some people were not wearing them. Ideally you want long pants and some sort of fleecey top. The main problem with wearing cotton T-shirts is you will work up a sweat and when you stop the shirt gets very cold, very quickly. As I don’t have any fleece gear, I wore a pair of cargo pants and two T-shirts. Wet weather gear (at least a poncho) is a good idea, as you may get some rain down low. I saw some people wearing gloves and I wished I’d had some, but if you do wear gloves, make sure they are fairly thin so you can still reach into nooks and crannies when you’re traversing the steep rock faces.


Cut your toenails
Sounds ridiculous, but on the way down, the walk is punishing on your toes. By cutting your toenails short you will avoid some of the worst of the pain.
Headlamp or torch
As you’ll be climbing at night, you’ll need a light. I had my own headlamp, so used that. Others had a torch. Personally I prefer a headlamp as it frees your hands. If you have neither, talk to your guide beforehand and they should be able to sort you out.
Food and water
Take at least two litres of water — one for the walk up and one for the walk down. Three is a lot, four litres is overdoing it. Remember you have to carry your own water. I went with two litres and finished the last mouthfuls of the second litre at the carpark. High energy snacks or a couple of chocolate bars are a good idea. Your guide should have some simple food for you. In my case Nyoman had for me a couple of jam sandwiches, a boiled egg and a hand of sweet bananas. I saw other guides cooking their guests chocolate banana pancakes at the summit (seriously!) The sandwiches and bananas were enough for me.


Sunscreen
Unless you are climbing during the day, only the last hour of the trek down should be in direct sunlight, and even then, early in the morning. I wouldn’t bother with sunscreen.
Other gear
I took my iPhone and Nikon D90. It is definitely worth having a decent camera for sunrise and for the walk down. On the walk up it is unlikely you’ll need to use your camera other than for a few pics of the city lights in the distance. I meant to take a tripod, but forgot. In any event, the summit was so crowded it would not have been practical to set one up as there simply wasn’t any space to do so. My advice would be to leave the tripod at home (unless you’re going for the summit of course as you’re far more likely to have that to yourself). There is very little phone signal coverage on the way up. I had a small daypack — ideally you want as small a backpack as possible.
Drugs
The climb up is extremely strenuous and, if you’re not an experienced climber, you will need to have your wits about you. That said, I used a moderate pain killer/anti inflammatory (Nurofen 400) on the way up and back. I took two before the start, two more two thirds of the way up and two more at the summit before starting back down. I’m glad I did. (This is more than the recommended dose — you should follow the instructions on the pack. Or talk to a doctor. Also, eat something before you take any.)


Rest often
The trail is more or less straight up — there are almost no switch backs and, of the entire climb, perhaps 100 metres is on relatively flat terrain. The relentless nature of the trail alone is exhausting. Matters are made worse by the quality of the surface. Up high you’re often scrambling on bare rock with plenty of rubble — big and small — while down low the trail can be slippery and very muddy, often with exposed tree roots ideal for tripping people up. Because of this you must watch every step. Seriously. There are no safety barriers and no safety ropes.
These factors, combined with the physical drain of climbing, means you are well advised to rest often. I rested perhaps 15 times on the way up, fewer on the way down, each time for around two to three minutes. This gives you time to compose yourself and catch your breath. It is not a race and do not try to treat it as one. Your guide should not push you and should keep to your pace. If your guide is outpacing you, ask them to slow down.


Use a guide
While guides are supposedly compulsory I saw six Russians climbing during the day without a guide. I’d say this is extremely unwise. I used Nyoman (T: 0852 3854 8412) on both my climbs and recommend him as a guide. He charges 500,000 rupiah for the climb before any costs for transportation (I had my own car so didn’t need to be picked up from Sidemen). Guidebooks and other travellers are also good sources for recommendations. Regardless of who you use, arrange to meet the day before so you can discuss the climb and so the guide can address any queries you may have.
Don’t freak out
At around 2,500 metres just as I was about to traverse a fairly steep rock section, I involuntarily vomited. This was followed by what I can only describe as a wave of, “I’m freaking out now”. I stopped and rested for a few minutes (I actually hid the vomiting from my guide as I didn’t want him to make me turn back being so close). I drank some water and just chilled out till I got myself together. From there I went on to reach the crater rim. Keep your head.
Stretch

Unless you’re climbing a peak every other day, climbing Agung is probably going to be a bit of a shock to the system. Do some simple stretches before starting to wake those legs up. If you feel cramping coming on during the climb, rest and do some more stretches. At the end of the climb, when you’re back at your guesthouse, rest. If you have time, book a massage for the following day (you’ve earned it!) — chances are you’ll be sore for a few days after the climb.

Bali Sidemen

11:48 PM Add Comment
Sidemen village is one of our favorite places in the Karangasem Regency. And we are not the only ones as in the past many famous painters such as Walter Spies and artists such as David Bowie stayed in Iseh next to Sidemen to capture the beauty of this area.   
View of Mount Agung
  Despite the overdevelopment on the island this unique area in east Bali still has the feeling as if not much has changed. The small villages are surrounded by rice fields and agricultural land while people still tend to their fields, prepare ceremonies at the temples and head to the rivers for a bath towards the end of the day. All under the watchful eye of the impressive and sacred Mount Agung.
Things to do: Walk along the many hiking trails and enjoy the rural life of Bali... Restaurants: Fresh products from the many fields nearby.... Places to stay: Expect mountain and rice field views here....
  More and more travelers are discovering this tranquil place, particularly nature lovers. Bali hiking trails and paths take you along rice fields, mountains, through the valleys of the Unda river and many coffee and cocoa plantations which dominate this area.   

  Sidemen is also an ideal place to start organizing a hike to the summit of the volcano Agung or to do day trips to other cultural sights in East Bali. But the best thing is the fact that it is still easy to just go for walks along the many paths and see things such as a duck herd guiding his flock, a priest carrying offerings to the nearby temple and children walking hand in hand from school.   she quickest way to reach Sidemen is driving through Klungkung and from there taking the road to Sidemen, which is located in the Karangasem regency. If you are coming from the east then follow the signs to Selat and Besakih and then take the turn to Putung. The drive to Sidemen is already a short day trip with optional stops at Besakih, Rendang and Klungkung.  
Things to do
Sidemen's rice fields provide beautiful hiking possibilities. So hiking is the first thing you are likely to do here. But there is more to this green village, making it pretty easy to spend a couple of days. Trips with a local guide can be organized at your accommodation or you can go exploring by yourself. In Sidemen tourism hasn't really sunk in yet. Unlike other places, the local people are not that pushy when it comes to offering tours etc. At some point we even had to ask around ourselves as the people here tend to 'leave you alone'.

Rice field (sawah) walk
You can't really avoid not hiking through the rice fields as you are pretty much surrounded by them. But a local guide can take you along the small trekking trails, through the fields and past the villages giving you great insight on how daily life takes place in Sidemen.

If you prefer just to travel by yourself then that is possible too. In the village Tabola, where most of the hotels are located you can easily go for a stroll and experience the rural life on Bali. If you want a bigger challenge then there is a trail taking you from Sidemen all the way to Padangbai. It's a six hour hike and a guide is necessary. 

Mount Agung
Many hikers head to Selat to organize their trip to the summit of Mount Agung. But if you want to combine your hike with a stay in Sidemen then you can arrange all the necessary permits and transportation here too.

Either your accommodation can do it for you or you can head to the small tourist offices in Tabola where they also offer other forms of daily tours around the area. 

Traditional Ikat and other cultural activities
At Sidemen you can still find many places where they make a fine textile called the "ikat" and the "songket". There are houses with ikat demo written on it welcoming you to pop in to have a look how it's been done.

We spoke to one of the young owners of the bed & breakfast where we were staying at and she said that the younger generation is not interested in making these textiles anymore as it is too difficult. Perhaps an even more reason to discover this endangered form of art. Other cultural activities are joining classes in traditional Balinese dancing, music and carving. 

Bali Rafting:
With all the rivers flowing through this area it comes as no surprise that there are many rafting companies. Most of the rafting adventures start of at the nearby village of Rendang.

There are also possibilities to raft down the Telega Waja river which starts at the impressive Mount Agung. Rafting gives you the opportunity to get an adrenalin shot but also to see Bali from a different angle. 

Short day trips:
Despite its location amid the valley and rice fields Sidemen is not that far from Candidasa and Padangbai. You can easily go on a drive to these beach villages and enjoy a lunch with ocean view.

Other great beaches to enjoy some sun and water is Bias Tugal and Pasir Putih. Once you are on the road try to stop at one of the sites such as Tirta Gangga, Taman Ujung Water Palace or the ancient village of Tenganan. We really enjoy taking the road via Muncun, a tiny mountain village between Candidasa and Sidemen. 
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Restaurants
We haven't found an abundance of restaurants in Sidemen. Most restaurants are linked with a hotel or home stay. It might not look as fancy as in the Ubud and Kuta area but no matter where we ate the food was delicious. Most of the ingredients are produced locally making it the freshest you can get.   

Stunning views over the rice paddy and delicious vegetables at Warung Organic
At the smaller home stays you need to let them know in the morning if you want to have your dinner there or not. But there are also places where you can drop by whenever you like. So all in all there isn't much need to recommend any specific restaurant since most of them are pretty much the same and just as good. When we were in Sidemen we enjoyed a great lunch at Warung Organic, managed by Great Mountain Views Villa resort. Here you have direct view of their organic garden and the rice fields.   
Cake at Warung Melita, part of the Darmada accommodation in Sidemen
We also couldn't resist to enjoy some home made cake at Warung Melita where you can sit near the river. At our bed& breakfast we mostly ate delicious Indonesian food such as Gado Gado and tasty Nasi Goreng. Return to top  
Places to stay
Since it is pretty difficult to find real rice field views in other parts of the island, Sidemen is becoming more popular. While in the past there were just a hand full of hotels in Sidemen, today more people are building a bed&breakfast, retreats or vacation rentals which are located in the middle of the rice fields.   

Enough choice, most accommodations are found in the village Tabola Sidemen
  Fortunately most of them have learnt from the mistakes made in other parts of the island and the majority of the resorts aim at supporting the local population, reducing plastic waste, using natural materials and even providing scholar ships. Here are just a couple of accommodations we have come across during our visits to Sidemen. 

Three things stand out immediately at the Giri Carik bed&breakfast. The amazing view of Gunung Agung, having just 3 clean and comfortable bungalows and the huge smile of Komang, your host. Komang and her brother speak fluent English while the rest of the family makes sure everything is up and running.

This is a great place to sit on your verandah and read a book or to take in the stunning view over Sidemen valley while watching the local farmers attend their fields. Komang will help you with everything you need so you will be able to enjoy all that this little village has to offer. 

Surya Shanti Villa:

If you want luxury and valley or mountain view from every spot of your accommodation then this is the place to stay at. Built on a hill the rooms, their spa and pool will provide unique views of the rice terraces. You can either stay at their villa with a verandah located right in front of the rice fields or you can open your curtains each morning to Mount Agung.

This villa complex supports sustainable tourism by conserving the natural environment, employing staff from the villages nearby and aiming to use minimal electricity by providing rooms without air conditioning (climate is cool in the evenings) and television. A partner of this luxury resort is Subak Tabola Villa. This Balinese styled accommodation with gorgeous views is a wonderful mid-range option. 

Luxury and ultimate privacy during your stay in Sidemen? Built by the local royal family this villa is an ideal place to come back to after exploring the area.


The staff will ensure that you will enjoy your stay. Personal requests such as meals can be arranged. It has two bedrooms and from the master bedroom you can even soak in the jacuzzi while admiring the view. Ideal for honeymooners, couples and families. On the exact same spot the famous painter,Walter Spies, had his house where he painted 'Iseh im Morgenlicht' in the 30's. Even Mick Jagger, David Bowie and Roman Polanski have stayed here to enjoy the best Sidemen has to offer. 

Sidemen Bali

11:40 PM Add Comment
Bali’s Sidemen (pronounced Si-da-men) sprawls across an enchanting valley and not only offers a magnificent landscape of terraced hills overshadowed by Gunung Agung, but here you can connect with traditional village life and recharge away from the trappings of the tourist hustle and bustle elsewhere. 
Sidemen is found about 90 minutes’ drive northeast of Ubud or an hour northwest of Candi Dasa. The valley is peppered with several small villages, with most tourist accommodation and restaurants around the village of Tabola. Here you will find the temperature drops a little, offering ideal conditions for trekking. It can be downright chilly at night — check that the hotel you’ve chosen provides enough cosy covers before you sign on the dotted line.
Sidemen is a traditional Hindu area and many locals, although friendly, are a little overwhelmed by the increasing numbers of tourists. It’s polite to dress respectfully when wandering around the village; we’d recommend keeping your shoulders and knees covered. A small Muslim population lives here too; these people are descendants from the Karangasam kingdom, which was based in modern Amlapura and once extended to Muslim-majority Lombok. There is a mosque in the village next door to Villa Lihat Sawah. Famous Westerners who discovered Sidemen before you did include German painter Walter Spies, who in the late 1930s moved from Ubud to Iseh near Sidemen as Ubud was “too crowded” — one wonders what he would think today. 
While it’s primarily a rice growing area, most farmers only plant one crop of rice per year, unlike other parts of Bali, where up to three crops are planted. Crops are rotated and you’ll find chillies, peanuts, corn and tapioca, among others. Flowers grown for offerings add other colours to the green. On the higher slopes salak (snakefruit), cacao, coffee and cloves are grown.

Temples are dotted through the fields as are large boulders — evidence of the holy mountain Gunung Agung’s former rage. The farmers just plant their fields around them. On the summit of the hill in Banjar Sangkan Gunung, Pura Bukit Tegeh (the temple on the hill), offers tremendous views and a steep uphill trek to see them. The Unda River meanders through the valley and forms part of Bali’s subak, the traditional irrigation system that pulses across the island.
Guides offer treks though the fields, but you can just as easily wander about yourself and get happily lost (but don’t trample the crops!). A guide though will explain a bit about the local culture, maybe take you inside a temple or to a local ceremony, and explain what all the plants and crops are. Rates are around 60,000 rupiah per hour for up to four people. 
Recommended local guides:
Yoko (I Nengah Merta Astawa): T: (0813) 3826 5214; yokotrekking@yahoo.com; 60,000 rupiah per hour for up to four people. Ricefield walk: Two to three hours. Temple walk: four to five hours. Gunug Agung or Gunung Batur trek: 500,000 rupiah per person, minimum two, maximum four. Includes transport, entry fees, local guide and breakfast and runs from 01:00-11:00.
I Nyoman Subrata: T: (0852) 3899 5701; nyomansidemen@gmail.com; 50,000 rupiah per hour for two people, usually for three hours. Gunug Agung trek: 1,000,000 rupiah for two people. Includes transport, entry fees, local guide and breakfast and runs from 01:00-11:00.
You can also organise to climb Gunung Agung from Sidemen. The trek to the top usually starts around 01:00 and costs 500,000 rupiah per person, with a minimum of two, returning about 11:00. 

Traditionally Sidemen is renowned for its songket and endek (ikat of the weft) weaving. Songket is an intricate and time-consuming process, produced on backstrap looms. It can take several months to weave a sarong. The traditional style here uses gold and silver thread along with naturally dyed cotton.
These days the metals are artificial, and many of the coloured dyes are chemicals, while sometimes silk is used rather than cotton. Regardless, it’s interesting to watch the beautiful and skilful work. Traditionally worn as wedding clothes or for tooth-filing ceremonies, due to their high cost, Balinese often hire songket for special occasions these days rather than buy them — that is reserved for the passing tourist or collector.

Ikat, locally called endek, is a form of weaving where tie-dyed thread creates a pattern that is then woven. Traditionally this cloth was only reserved for high caste families, and woven on blackstrap looms, however these days it’s produced in greater quantities, usually on a larger loom, and takes less time than songket. Many local artisans whose skills have been passed down through generations work out of their homes around Sidemen.
A guide can take you, or up on the main road, you can see the weaving in action at Pelangi for ikat (T: (0812) 392 3483; open daily 09:00-18:00), make sure you visit the workshop underneath, or opposite in a small unnamed shop, for songket. Weaving is for sale and prices are negotiable. Beware of the cheaper mass-produced machine-made weavings in some of the shops. Pelangi also sells textiles from other parts of Indonesia and accepts credit cards. 

The family at the songket shop also produce traditional Balinese books made from lontar palm leaves and bamboo. The text is scrapped into the dried leaf with a sharp implement then rubbed with a mixture of coconut oil and burnt candlenut, to make the scratchings visible. Pages are tied together, through holes, concertina-ed and bookended with bamboo. These books traditionally stored sacred Hindu texts written in Sanskrit and were kept in temples.
Sidemen is also one of Bali’s best known areas for producing arak (potent moonshine). Distilleries can be a little tricky to find, and you’ll probably need a local to take you. One we visited said they collect 50 litres of palm flower sap (which can also be fermented to make palm-wine — tuak), and distill it to produce 20 litres of arak, which they sell for 20,000 rupiah per bottle (about 600 millilitres). Beware there have been numerous deaths in Bali caused by methanol poisoning from badly distilled arak.

Sidemen is home to a Sadus Tile factory, which produces beautifully coloured and pattered traditional cement tiles, used in many of the local hotels.

Sidemen has a local genjek group. Genjek is traditional music from east Bali that involves groups of men singing, usually tales of woe and lost love, punctuated with a kind of cek-cek sound (a little like some forms of rap), drinking arak and individuals performing a dance off. There are no regular performances, but sometime there are local competitions between various groups — ask around, and you may be lucky to see one. 

If you’re an early riser, the morning market on the main road through the village starts about 04:00, and is all over by 09:00.
I Gede Tama at Pondok Bukit Luah, across the river from Tabola, offers silver classes for 400,000 rupiah for two people. You will produce two simple rings from about eight grams of silver. T: (0852) 3772 1290; www.facebook.com/gede.tama.3.

Cooking classes are offered at Surya Shanti Villa in their wonderful traditional kitchen, for $50 per person, with a minimum two. T: (0852) 3734 5574;(0828) 9729 8500. Embang Homestay also provide cooking classes on request in a more modern kitchen setting for 300,000 rupiah for two people. T: (0813) 3753 6464, (0853) 3399 7092.

Have a stretch at Sidemen Yoga Centre (T: (0812) 3918 700) located at Cepik Villa — by request only. Many hotels have spas and massages can be had in your room too — ask at your accommodation.

Sukahet Sari Bali Countryside cultural village, about six kilometres south of the centre of Sidemen, offer half-day cultural workshops and tours. Though mostly aimed at groups, individuals can also participate. Options include cooking classes, offering making, and you can ride a plough behind a cow through the fields — fun for kids too. It’s less cheesy than it sounds and is priced from $55 including lunch, with a discount for kids. T: (0851) 0145 7474; (0811) 396 070; www.balicountryside.com.
Forty minutes’ north of Sidemen is Pura Besakih, Bali’s mother temple. This is the largest temple complex on the island, and the most important to the Balinese. We’d recommend going with a local in tow for a ceremony if possible or with an outside guide, rather than turn up alone and face the hassle of touts there — or just avoid it altogether, as there are plenty of other beautiful temples in Bali to see. 
Accommodation in Sidemen is mostly found in Tabola, along a road that leads from the main road, then heads south running almost parallel — just follow the signs. In recent years the choices here have become more upmarket and Sidemen now has some lovely accommodation to choose from — many rooms have excellent views. Hardly any rooms are now available for under 300,000 rupiah per night, however you can bargain a bit in low season. If you’re on a tight budget, Warung Bali offers one simple fan-cooled cold-water room with no view for 150,000 rupiah. We were unable to inspect it as it was full, but it’s the cheapest sleep around. Most other offerings fall well into the mid- to top-range brackets. The word ‘villa’ has become a ubiquitous misnomer in Sidemen, and almost every hotel here is Villa this or Villa that. 
Food choices haven’t quite kept up with the upward mobility of the accommodation, but you’ll find some decent local options. Menus don’t offer much variety, and many hotel restaurants and local warungs offer the same Indonesian, Western and Thai choices. Yes, Thai; it’s not quite what you’ll find on the streets of Bangkok, but it makes a change. The story is that one of the hotels employed a chef who had studied in Thailand, and this guy taught others in the village.

Getting to and from Sidemen can be a bit tricky via public transport, but is possible. Around the village, motorbikes and motorbike taxis can be hired locally. Some of the higher-end hotels offer free local transport or bicycles. 
Sidemen is worth at least an overnight stay, if nothing more than to do nothing and soak up the serenity. But if you’ve got the time and enjoy trekking, you could easily spend two or three relaxing nights here.

Orientation
Sidemen has one BRI ATM that in theory accepts international cards located on the main road, slightly north of the turn-off to the hotels -- if it doesn't work, Klung Kung a 30 minute drive away, is a good bet. 
The police station is opposite. If you are in need of medical attention, the closest clinics are at Manggis near Candi Dasa or Ubud. For serious illness, best to head back to Denpasar or Kuta.
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